Travelling to ride new trails can be one of the best things about mountain biking. While the buzz of riding your local trails with speed and accuracy on dialled lines cannot be ignored - discovering new trails and meeting other riders is a huge part of mountain biking.

But getting our beloved bicycles to the trails safe and sound can sometimes be tricky - mostly if there's more than one or two of you in the car. Mountain biking is better with mates, right?

We've taken a look at bike bags you can use if you're travelling some really long distances - but what about for a trip up the coast or into the Australian Alps with your car? Should you put the bikes inside, on top, or on the back?

Here's a look at some options, and the pros and cons.

Don't forget to check that you're compliant with local road rules - here's a rundown for NSW, but do be sure to check rules for your own state.

In the back

Putting your bikes in the back of the car is the value choice. There is no added drag with the associated increased fuel consumption. Bikes stay safe when you stop for food. You don't have to pay for a rack or a roof setup. But you do need to have a van, wagon or hatchback to make it work. And if there are more than two of you it gets tricky.

Of course, if you have a people mover it can work out ok.

How to make it all work

You still need to be pretty good at Tetris to make it work, unless the car is massive. Use some padding like old towels or foam camping mats between the bikes. You might need to push dropper posts down and remove front, if not rear wheels too. Chock the brake calipers with the travel chocks, or a 20c piece or some cardboard works as well. Make sure you don't have pedals crushing downtubes, and rotors aren't being bent. Treat your rear derailleur very gently too!

Pros:

- This is as cheap as it gets

- It's pretty quick, and secure

- highly cost effective for fuel consumption

Cons:

- Mountain bikes get dirty and that comes into your car

- Very limited capacity for mates and their bikes

- Potential damage from one bike to the other: rotors, frames etc

- Did you put all the wheels in? And the through-axles?

 

Put your bikes up top

This is always the primo option - bikes up on the top of the car means you have the full use of the interior of your car and you can get into the boot easily too. You do need roof bars to attach the units to, and of course the rack units themselves. This does add up so it's a premium option. With everyone moving towards SUVs of different proportions, roof top carrying might also put your bikes quite literally out of reach.

Your options for roof-racks

The big discussion for putting your bikes on the roof is usually about whether you use a rack that clamps the fork, or one that keeps the front wheel on. Taking the front wheel off to clamp the fork is a rock solid option.

But depending on your bike, your mate's bikes, and the rack you choose axle compatibility can be an issue. Is it for a QR? 12mm axle? 15? 20? A Lefty?! Or is it Boost? It's a minefield.

The new Yakima Highspeed neatly skirts all those problems, as the mount clamps down on the through-axle (or included false axle for forks that use a 9mm quick-release). You just dial up the tension and it locks in. Plus, the rack is torque limited so you can't break anything!

The rack just clamps right onto your through-axle.

The rear secures your back wheel, and with two strap lengths it will accommodate anything from a skinny road bike wheel to a fat bike with 5" tyres. If that's your thing.

The rear of the rack also has an integrated lock cable. BYO locking barrels.

You might also look at the Yakima Forkchop - especially if it's not for frequent use. The Forkchop is just two pieces, one to clammp the fork, and one to clamp the reare wheel. With tool-freeadaptors to suit just about any front axle standard, this is a great addition for when you have some extra bikes to haul, or just for infrequent use. The system takes about 3 or 4 minutes to put on your roof racks.

The Forkchop can deal with just about any front axle.

The rear cradle can adjust for wheelbase by mounting it forward or backwards, and with two strap sizes it will work for a road bike through to a fat bike.

 

What about your front wheel? Well that can go inside, but Yakima make a product called the Wheelhouse which is a little extra rack that can hold your front wheel.

Of course, leaving the front wheel on is often easier as it saves taking things off and putting them on, or forgetting wheels or through-axles. The Yakima HighRoad is a new rack that dials up a clamp onto your front wheel, so it doesn't clamp the frame which reduces any chance of any kind of damage.

The HighRoad clamps the front wheel, leaving dirty or lightweight frames free from damage.

There are lots of options for roof racks, but mostly you're looking at a rack which leaves your front wheel on, or where you have to remove it.

Pros:

- This is easy - you have all of the inside of your car to use

- No dirty bikes inside your car

- Still easy to reverse park

- You can lock the racks or lock them on.

Cons:

- Carports, garages and drive through meals

- Any aero gains your car has is lost

- Bug collection on big drives

- Do you drive an SUV? How are you getting up there anyway?

- Not great for heavy bikes


 

We have also tested the Thule ProRide 598 and SeaSucker Mini Bomber rack.

Put your bikes on the back

This is a handy option for a lot of reasons. You don't add to the height of your car, which is great for parking and any low bridges - or low anything. It also means less heavy lifting, especially if you're looking at an E-MTB.

The constraints here are whether you have a hitch mount, a towball - or neither. Thankfully there are options.

We've just received a Yakima Dr Tray and tested it out, this is a super adaptable hitch mount rack.

This is a premium rack, but being able to slide the beds to suit bikes makes a huge difference, especially with the variety of wheel sizes, frame lengths and of course the sizes of bikes. The rack also folds up and is pretty compact to store when not in use. 

There are also towball mounted options, like the Thule Velo Compact. We used one for a visit to Tropical North Queensland, and as it mounts onto a towball it was easy to fit. It also had lights built in, and a place for a number plate. This keeps you legal, and it's an important point to remember for almost every state. Your number plate needs to be visible, as doe your lights and indicators.

If you don't have a tow ball or hitch mount option, there are countless racks that strap onto the car. Some strap on and have a tray to support the wheelbase, others have 2 or 3 cradles for top tubes. The real caution here is make sure the design works for your bike. We reviewed the Yakima King Joe Pro and loved it, but it does depend on your frame design as to how well it will work. The other question is - did you secure it properly? That's a hard one to get out of your mind.

Bikes on the back are easy to keep an eye on.

Pros:

- No risk of damagin bikes on low hanging trees, roofs, bridges or awnings.

- Aero and fuel efficient on long trips

- Easy to put on, and brands like Thule have options that support e-MTB weights

- Typically cheaper than most roof options 

- No need to understand every axle standard

Cons: 

- "Sorry, did you want to get something out of the boot?"

- Reversing into things

- They can demand certain Tetris skills

- Not all racks work with all bikes

- You have to factor in a light/number plate board in most states


We have also tested the near bombproof KUAT NV - check out our review.

 

Put your bikes in your ute

This is a popular choice as it's easy and cheap. You might just throw a blanket over the tray and call it good. But a few brands make products to make it a little smoother.

We have used the Yakima CrashPad a number of times. It fits well and has a strong construction. A blanket or picnic rug can slide around, and take your bike with it. The CrashPad stays put but it doesn't hold the bikes down. You need to be careful of bumpy roads, and even dirty bikes. It's easy to scrape off all the paint from your fork legs and down tube if you put bikes in without wiping those areas down. The grit acts like sandpaper.

The latest Santa Cruz Nomad has an in-built guard for shuttles.

You could also look at a try based secure mount. We tested the Yakima BikerBar, which you can add mounts to for the right front axle. It is super solid, but works best in a long tray, unless you're happy to have the tailgate down. We'd love to play with something like the BeddyJo, another option from Yakima.

Pros

- These options are usually really cheap. Maybe even free if you use an old blanket

- There's a reason why this is a common choice for shuttling

- Packed well, you can fit 4 or 5 bikes in the back of a ute

- If it's got a fork and downtube - it fits.

Cons

- Security on long trips isn't so good unless you have a big lock

- Is the bike attached or can it bounce out?

- The risk of damage is significant


There are plenty more options, but hopefully this gives you some ideas on how you want to transport your bike. If you're taking it places a lot, a rack that's easy to use will be a good investment. If it's a once off trip - maybe a simpler rack that takes a little more time to setp is a good choice. If you're not sure - ask your local bike shops or rack specialist.