In this feature, Ben from Bicycle Mechanic Training Institute (BMTI) is explaining the process of using wax to lubricate your chain.
Words: Ben Milivojevic Photos: Ben Sykes
Chain waxing is not as hard as or time consuming as people think. The extra few minutes to wax a chain at the start saves you that time in the long run as you’re not having to clean the drivetrain all the time. Not only will you have a clean and more efficient drivetrain, it will last so much longer not running in a black grinding paste.
Things you will need:
- Wax (food grade NOT candles)
- Slow cooker (no bigger than 3.5L)
- New chain
- Master link removal tool
- Swishing tool (made from a coat hanger)
- Mineral turpentine
- Methylated spirits
- Cleaning brushes
Click through the gallery at the top fo the page for the step-by-step guide to waxing you chain.
Q & A
Q – Do I need to clean my chain/drivetrain anymore?
A – No, you may like to brush out the flaked off wax in-between the cassette cogs every 2000km.
Q – Can I simply take my chain off and re-wax without cleaning?
A – Yes, if you like before the waxing procedure pour boiling water on to the chain to melt the old wax, dry and simply re-wax.
Q – How long will the wax last?
A – You should get around 300km before the re-waxing is needed (this will vary with riding conditions).
Q – Why does my chain sound dry?
A – Your chain is coated in a solid wax so a little metal on metal noise is common.
Find out about the Bicycle Mechanic Training Institute HERE