High above the Coppermine in New Zealand
Images: Tim Bardsley-Smith
Images: Tim Bardsley-Smith
The Dun Mountain/Coppermine Trail is one of the 23 Great Rides in New Zealand, and thanks to its proximity to Nelson, it is one of the most accessible backcountry mountain biking routes in the whole of country. Of course, that doesn’t mean it can be underestimated. Dun Mountain is quite prominent, and the route climbs almost 1000m, but of course, it descends back down again too, along newly built and upgraded singletrack that is mostly a New Zealand Grade 3 until Coppermine Saddle, then mostly Grade 4 on the way down.
RIDING THE MOUNTAIN
The route is accessed from Nelson, which is one of the best places in New Zealand for a mountain bike holiday. Actually it’s not bad for a paddling holiday, a hiking holiday, driving holiday… or a wine and beer tour too. Nelson really has a lot to offer, and it would be worth reading up on the area in our current travel issue.
The glory of Nelson for mountain biking is a combination of a few things. The climate is friendly, it’s close to the beach for post ride swimming in summer, and it would be very hard to do all the trails in one trip, given the variety of trails spread over the region. There is enough riding here for at least three weeks, without repeating anything.
The Dun Mountain route actually runs up New Zealand’s oldest railway line, which was used to mine Copper – would you believe – and Chromite. The route starts at Brooke Street, and passes through the Codger’s Mountain Bike Park, which is just one of many mountain bike parks in and around Nelson. It’s a bit of a slog, and it’s recommended to allow about 5 or 6 hours for the whole 38km route, although an ex-Australian mountain biker who’s moved to Nelson claims he does it in about 2.5 hours.
Of course, we wanted to experience the finest parts of the trail… so when we got in touch with Steve from Helibike Nelson, he suggested we use a helicopter to get to Coppermine Saddle. Holidays are about experiencing new things, so none of us saw fit to argue. Not only would we get a helicopter ride over the New Zealand countryside, we’d get all the descending for none of the climbing. What’s not to like?
HELIBIKING ABOVE NELSON
While we don’t often get the chance to go helibiking at home in Australia, it’s a growing business across the pond in New Zealand. With so many trails opened (and opening) for mountain bikers, lots of long day rides, and multi-day routes are becoming possible. Of course, not everyone is capable of the time off work, or all the hard work required for accessing backcountry trails. So that’s where someone like Steve, and helibiking, comes into play. While Steve runs plenty of guided trips and shuttle services without the use of helicopters, by working with Reid Helicopters he’s able to put together some great trips for riders of any level from Nelson and around the globe.
Depending on how you feel about big machines, one of the coolest parts of the trip was arriving at Reid Helicopters in the Helibike Nelson shuttle. With three pristine helicopters on site, it really was a case of being surrounded by big kids’ toys. The hanger had a floor to ceiling map of the greater Nelson/Tasman region, and a view over to the mountains that anyone would love to have in their backyard.
We met Toby, who is the owner and chief pilot at Reid Helicopters. With some inclement weather rolling in, we sat down for a coffee and Toby explained the sorts of trips that he does with Steve. The area they are in allows them access to drop riders off for the Heaphy Track, the Old Ghost Road, and plenty of other locations that might take too much time to get in and out of otherwise. They also do a whole range of trips for hiking, scenery and fishing – but we mostly talked about bikes. We were also really happy to see the racks Toby had fitted to the Squirrel, which held the bikes much like many car roof rack systems – way better than having them in a cage below the chopper, or dangling on a rope. Having them certified by the aviation authority was painfully expensive, but no ones bike gets damaged, and everyone has a better experience. Along with our safety briefing, and Steve making sure we knew what to expect in the mountains and on the trails, it was evident that they want to make sure everyone has a great time, and that bike and rider get there, and back, safely.
The clouds cleared and we had the line of sight we needed for flying. Our bikes were already loaded and we piled into the helicopter. Taking off and pulling away from the ground with your bike secured right next to you (albeit outside) does get the heart started. We flew across the nearby farms and approached the forested slopes of the Mount Richmond Forest Park mountain ranges, with Steve and Dave from Biking Nelson pointing out peaks and routes that just looked like a series of mountains to us. It was obvious we were heading into the hills with people who knew them well.
We approached the Coppermine Saddle and were given some pretty strict instructions, mostly based around how to not get injured (or killed) by the rotors. We landed, scrambled clear of the helicopter and Toby and our guides unloaded our bikes.
We watched as Toby flew off into the clouds that had risen up around us again. After the cacophony of the helicopter, the comparative silence was deafening.
SLIDING OFF THE SADDLE
While the 23 Great Rides initiative has meant there’s been extra investment in this trail – it is by no means new. From the saddle, the South Branch trail used to descend on some very rugged singletrack. Our guides Steve and Dave point out the old trail as we get ready for the descent. It’s narrow, overgrown, and just about everything you would expect a pretty wild trail to be.
What’s here now is by no means tame. It’s quite steep in places, rocky, rough, and it’s an easy place to pick up a lot of speed that you might not know what to do with. Given the rainfall in the mountains, much of the trail is domed for runoff, with natural gutters built to the side. These are excellent for water management, but in some areas they are a hazard if you get a bit sideways.
With about 10km of descending in front of us, we pull on our jackets as some drizzle sets in. One by one we stream onto the singletrack, tracing through the turns at the top of the pass like a short snake in some reasonably bright clothing.
The trail is really open up the top of the pass, but soon enough we drop lower and get some shelter from the rising wind. The trail negotiates the rocky terrain really well, but not without keeping some features on the trail to add some fun. Matt boosts off some rocks and Tim manages to pick up speed insanely quickly as we accelerate down the hill.
We keep descending, further into the forest, past low shrubs and then small trees, and down some long sustained sections that drop us into the lush green valley below. The terrain keeps you really focused, as with the continual drop you easily pick up speed, and the rock is sharp, hard and unforgiving. We were all on trail bikes with strong tyres, but still had one sidewall tear in our group. An experienced rider could bring a hardtail on this route, but a trail bike with strong tyres and good brakes would be the best tool for the job.
In less than 20 minutes we had descended from an open saddle with nothing to hide behind, to scrappy subalpine foliage, low growth bush, and now lush forest.
The terrain continued to change, and the trail follows a line above the stream down the valley, continually dropping height, and sometimes moving to elevated boardwalks to avoid wet areas. As the trail flattens we pick up more speed, given the benefit of improved line of sight and a little more room to move, as each of us tries to edge past the other, racing for the best line amongst the tree ferns.
We end up coming to a service road, where riders have the option to ride back up and over a different pass to return to the start of the trail before the climb. With the van waiting for us at the base, we instead get back to the singletrack that has formed on an old service trail for the dam, until we’re held up by a duck.
Yes, a duck.
For some reason, Steve has managed to befriend this duck, and she’s chosen him as a mate. So while Steve is able to pat the duck as she’s flown across the valley to say hi, she’s also pretty keen on keeping us away from him.
We carry on down the valley, and while the route would drop us right back in town, Steve has another of his shuttles and trailers parked off the road, and we pull up, still buzzing from the long descent, talking about close calls on fast corners, some near misses, and other trails that we shot past that will have to be left for ‘next time’.
What really stood out was how the helicopter access added to the experience. We got taken right to the heart of the action – and while I’m not afraid of a long climb, or some hard work to earn a great riding experience, I can see why helibiking is so popular, due to the ability to almost teleport you to the top of a wild descent, without a chair lift or shuttle road required. You get to enjoy the part of the ride you look forward to the most, in a fresh, relaxed state – without fatigue.
Other Great Rides
You’re more likely to be struggling to choose which ride to do, than wondering where to go when you’re in Nelson. The Rameka Track is a great ride, although you’re best to get a lift to the start. You could also travel further west for the multi-day Old Ghost Road, which is being finalised this summer.
Eating and Drinking
The Sprig and Fern offers some great local beers, and there’s plenty of options on the main street of Nelson. But for meals, it’s hard to go past East St Vegetarian Cafe for great food and exquisite service. They have just moved to 8 Church Lane.
Getting There
Nelson airport is connected to other New Zealand cities, but chances are you’ll fly via Christchurch or Auckland if you come over from Australia. If you’re driving there, believe the suggested driving times, they’re not fast open roads over the mountains.
Find it, Ride it, the first time
Getting a guide when riding in new places can really help you get your head around where the trails are, what the ratings mean, and what you need to be aware of in the local area. It also means you can think a bit less about where you’re going, and just focus on the riding. We were guided by Helibike Nelson and Nelson Biking, both were very helpful during our stay.
Helibikenelson.co.nz or bikingNelson.co.nz
When to Go
We rode in the middle of August, and it was fine. But the best times to go would be October to December or February to April, to avoid both winter and the crowds in summer. But Nelson is a year round riding destination.
What’s on
There’s an event that runs over Coppermine in February, and on 20th February 2016 it’s on again. There are two courses, and both involve the trail. However the Epic course adds a natural singletrack descent down Black Diamond Ridge. So if you could be in Nelson around this time, you’d be crazy to miss taking part in this backcountry event.
